At this stage I chose to lay the machine on its left side so the heater Element is facing up. It eliminates the flood of water that would come from removing the heater Element with the boiler at operating water capacity. It’s still a good idea to be aware of water that can evacuate from the bleed valve or the group if that valve is opened in error, which is easy to do.
After removing the connections from the terminals, breaking the initial bond with the socket and driver is somewhat difficult, but once that has been achieved, unscrewing the Heating Element is pretty straight forward. Reinstalling the new Element is the reverse process - particular attention should be paid to the seal around the boiler to the Teflon gasket and the Teflon gasket to the Element, especially at operating pressures.
I chose to keep the Element connectors unplugged after a test run, to allow the boiler water capacity to recharge so the Element is not exposed to the air (low water situation) on the fist power up. After I was satisfied the boiler was full, I cut power, reconnected the terminals and refit the panels.